I've decided to post some DIY fails here. These "DIY rescue" repairs can quickly get very expensive so BE CAREFUL!! The two small components that are missing in this picture are also essential and must be replaced, not jumped, if they are damaged. The capacitor on the left is essential and required. The capacitor just to the right of the backlight fuse is only found on the iPad mini and the iPad 4 and is difficult to source if you damage it and have to replace it. Keep in mind-this picture is an image that I took to send to a customer that came to me from this very thread that knocked off the two essential components circled in red while digging around trying to make the jumper. If you insist on jumping it, you would need to lay a bead of solder across the top of this component with the red arrow. Here is a close up of the iPad mini backlight fuse-ideally you would replace it for a robust long lasting solution which is very straightforward to do with the right equipment and experience. Easy solution is to have to make sure that you disconnect the battery before disconnecting the LCD connector and reconnecting the battery after the LCD has been reconnected to the board during reassembly. It's caused by disconnecting the screen while the iPad powered or possibly turning on the iPad on accident while the screen is unplugged. What causes this problem to happen in the first place? Good question. It you successfully bypass it with the solder method, make sure you don't make the same mistake again as you may end up with irreparable board damage. To add to this: the fuse is there for protection just like any fuse is in any electrical circuit. 02-.03 ohms) your problems is somewhere else in the circuit. If you have no continuity then lay solder across the top of the fuse, making a bridge for the electricity to flow past it. Put the meter on the continuity setting, touch the right side of the fuse with one lead and the left side of the fuse with the other lead. You can test the fuse for an open first with a multimeter to make sure this is the issue you are having. You do not need jumper wires or anything else. To bypass the fuse all you have to do is lay a bead of solder on top of the fuse that connects the left and right side of the fuse pad. The path of the electricity to operate the back light follows the green line from the top right of the pic thru the fuse marked in red to the connector. Ok let me sum this up so no more people are confused by this pic.
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